Thursday, September 9, 2010

Rosemary Honey Gelato

Wow.  This was fun.  And delicious.  I decided to try and make this batch of gelato without eggs in an attempt to get a denser ice cream without anything extra to play with the flavors.  This is a Sicilian-style gelato that uses cornstarch to thicken the base while cooking.

A couple of notes: this batch was extremely intense right out of the machine; the honey flavor was sharp and the rosemary left a strong bite.  After letting the batch set in the freezer overnight, it seems to have mellowed considerably, though it could be seasonal allergies wrecking havoc on my ability to taste or smell anything.  I used eucalyptus honey which is very sweet and syrupy.  Next time, I think a darker, smokier honey would be better, as the sweetness does seem to get in the way of the rosemary.  I think a darker honey would also be better if I ever get my hands on some lavender so I can make lavender infused gelato.

Second, since this base does not use any egg, I decided to use whole milk with the hope of avoiding weird water crystals during freezing and setting.  This seemed to work out well; the gelato feels a little gritty when scooping, and the appearance is not quite as smooth as I was hoping for, but the taste is wonderful and no real iciness creeps in when eating.

Also, I hate straining.  All the recipes I read for gelato call for straining out zest and herbs prior to freezing.  I am of the opinion that these will add flavor and character to the batch when it is served.  So long as it is edible and does not look particularly nasty or messes with the texture of the ice cream, it stays in.  If you prefer to keep such things out of your ice cream, strain the mixture after it cools prior to freezing.

Bonk appétit!
Special Equipment:
Ice cream machine

Ingredients:
2 cups whole milk
1 cup half and half (set aside 1/3 cup)
3 Tbsp corn starch
1/2 cup honey
1-2 Tbsp chopped rosemary


Makes about 1 quart

In a small bowl, mix the 1/3 cup half and half with the corn starch until the starch is dissolved and the slurry is smooth.  Set aside.

In a saucepan, heat the whole milk and remaining half and half, adding the rosemary after the liquid begins to heat through (2-3 minutes on medium heat.)  Add the slurry just before the mixture begins to boil.  Reduce the heat to low.  Add the honey.  Stir rapidly and thoroughly mix the honey, making sure it is completely dissolved.

Continue to cook and stir over low heat for several minutes, until the mixture begins to thicken.  Pay particular attention to scraping the bottom of the pan with a wood spoon or rubber spatula, as you want to avoid scorching.  Remove from heat before the mixture begins to boil and pour into a large bowl.  Set aside to cool or place the bowl in an ice bath.  While the mixture is cooling, a skin may form on the top.  Just whisk this back into the mixture.

Once the mixture is down to around room temperature, place the bowl in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight.  If you are able, give the mixture a little vigorous stirring every so often and taste check to see if the rosemary is strong enough for your liking.  If the rosemary is a touch weak, you can add more chopped herb to the mixture while it is cooling.

Again, I prefer to freeze the mixture for about an hour or two to make the machine process a little easier since the ice cream maker I use does not have a built in compressor.  If you find that your batches do not freeze well or remain very runny when in the machine, this may help out in getting a thicker batch.

I've found that when using a freezing core like the one here, if you can scrape the sides easily with a rubber spatula, you're in a good place as far as consistency is concerned.  Sometimes with this type of machine, the ice cream will freeze solid to the bottom and sides.  Generally, this means there is too much water in the mixture.  It is often a problem with sorbetto recipes, as they contain no milk fats.

One of the nice things about this recipe is that it makes for an excellent morning treat after a constant awakenings by cats.

2 comments:

  1. You can always put your spices in a muslin bag so sthey can be easily removed at the end of cooking. Let me know if you want me to make you some. Mom

    ReplyDelete